I looked high and low for instructions on how to build new steps for a hot tub and really came up almost empty handed.  After a little confab with the folks at the home building store we came up with this approach which worked out very well for us.  Total cost for these steps was about $50.

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Front view of the completed steps

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Bottom view of the completed steps

Step 1. Gather your Materials

You’ll need the following materials and tools:

  • Carpenter’s square
  • Indoor/outdoor wood glue (optional)
  • Electric drill with screwdriver bits
  • Tape measure
  • Flat working surface
  • The following pressure treated dimensional lumber:
    • 4 – 2″ x 8″ x 31 7/8″
    • 2 – 2″ x 8″ x 20 1/2″
    • 2 – 2″ x 8″ x 10 1/4″
    • 4 – 1″ x 6″ x 36″ (often called decking)
  • Outdoor deck screws
  • Non-slip adhesive tape (optional)
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A shot of the completed steps plus the tools required to build them

Step 2 – Assemble the first box

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Lay the boards for the bottom box out on a flat surface.

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Start the screw on the smaller boards. I find it easier this way.

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Apply some wood glue to the joints.

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Use a square to make sure the boards are at the right angle and screw them together.

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Screw the box sides together.

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When done you will have completed the bottom box.

Step 3 – Assemble the second box

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Lather rinse repeat with the remaining 2" x 8"s to create the top box.

Step 4 – Attach boxes to each other

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When done, set the small box on top of the larger box.

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Screw on an angle from the back to attach the two boxes together.

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Another pair of screws from the inside. Again, on an angle.

Step 5 – Add the steps

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Steps are just standard deck boards.

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Screw down the steps.

Step 6 – Finishing touches

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You can add non-slip adhesive tape for traction if you'd like. (Pick a better colour than I did though!)

You have to wait about 1 year before the pressure treated wood is ready to accept a coating of stain.  I plan to visit our local waste transfer station a year from now and pickup a 1/2 can of stain from the reusable paint shack there.

Step 7 – Enjoy

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The first customer.

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The finished product. Sturdy, long lasting, and way cheaper than buying plastic steps for $100 - $200!

14 Responses to How To Build New Steps for your Hot Tub

  • My hot tub is in a conservatory (weather is much worse here in the UK lol) so I used your guide and made one for the hot tub and one for the conservatory too!

    Thanks for the Guide, saved me some money!

    Steve

  • George Smith says:

    Thanks for the plan, I will modify it to make a 4 step design, thanks

  • Rob Campbell says:

    Thanks so much for the plan! The instructions were very easy to follow. I am not a handy man at all, and if I was able to make them, then anyone could follow your instructions! Great job!

  • Greg says:

    This is useful. Thanks for putting this together and posting it!

  • Chad Shelton says:

    Wow, this is what I’ve been looking for. I got a used hot tub that came with some steps that, well, I guess seen better days. I did alot of searching and finally came across this. Just what the doctor ordered. Went to HD got all the supplies for around 28.00, had them go ahead and cut all my pieces to size. When I got home took me 15 mins to assemble, and then STEPED, not climed in to the tub. Thank you so much for the advice.

  • Shari says:

    I also went to Home Depot and had the boards cut. This was so simple to assemble and now we have some great, sturdy steps for the hot tub. Cost less than $25 and will probably last a lot longer than the $90 steps that I saw on line. Thanks!

  • Jim Killoran says:

    Thanks for the plan for hot tub step
    I built mine a little wider (44″) and used composite deck boards for steps Finished the base step with Hardrock (Home Hardware Product) which is the same finish as my deck.
    Also built a handrail on the left side. This is a GREAT set of plans.
    Thanks Jim

  • danzig says:

    Great plans and easy to follow instructions.
    Put mine together today, and can’t believe how much easier (and safer) it is to use our hot tub now.
    Thank you so much for publishing this!

  • devin says:

    Great project plan followed it to precise measurements. Worked out great, the only thing that could be added is exact size of deck screws i used 2 1/2 which seemed to work but 3″ wouldn’t hurt cause that way an inch is being screwed all the way through instead of a 1/2 “

  • devin says:

    yea that’s where i went an if you have then cut it into the measurements when you check out it’ll be so cheap, plus it’s only 25 cents per cut i think the first 2 were free though

  • Dave Cherry says:

    Great set of easy to follow plans. I had the wood cut at Home Depot, and they did not charge me for the cuts. I beefed it up with a centre 2×4 step support and finished the outside with the same vertical slats as the Hot Tub is constructed of. It looks like they were bought as a set. Thanks for the great idea.

  • diygirl says:

    excellent post….I just bought a hot tub that came with steps that aren’t too great and not particularly safe. I would like a tutorial on how to make a handrail, preferably chrome, one piece, that can be attached to existing steps (two tier). I think it should be the law that all hot tub steps should be sold with a handrail at least on one side or a place for attachment of a rail. Tubs are way too slippery to be used without a rail and the handrail grip systems that are sold separately are insanely expensive, often $150-200. Owning a tub is expensive enough, we need ways as DIY-ers to not get ripped off with all the “extras” that are so marked up for obscene profits it’s ridiculous. Thanks again for the great instructions, I’m sure you’re enjoying your steps!

  • Scott Keen says:

    Thanks for the plans. I made these today with a few changes. My spa has plywood panel siding which I also tacked to the steps and painted to match. I also used Trex for the decking. I had to shorten the width so that the 5/8″ panels would fit neatly and flush under the Trex edges. I shortened the bottom of the panel siding 1/4″ all the way around so that the panels don’t touch the ground directly and get rotted from moisture. I also spaced the Trex with 1/4″ gaps to allow moisture to drain. I’m not a woodworker, just like to play with power tools and wood. Thanks again for the basic plans.
    Spa steps with Trex Pic 1
    Spa steps with Trex Pic 2